Iceland, it has to be said, is a true wonder of this world. From the lava fields shrouded in diverse moss types, to the glaciers, the mountains, the endless, bleak plains to the molten Earth so overwhelmingly under pressure that it literally explodes with the force of the parts of the planet we can't even see. Rekyavik is a slightly more normative settlement nestled between these extraordinary elements and boasts not only the title of capital city (those who have toured other European capitals may scoff at this) but also rows upon rows of idyllic, low-rise, Scandinavian-looking buildings housing what I truly believe to be one of the nicest race of people I have encountered.Beyond the folksy shops selling wools, furs, Christmas ornaments and stuffed Puffins, Reykjavik becomes a more diverse city than immediate perceptions might suggest. An array of Chinese, Italian, Scandinavian and fast-food restaurants line the streets and break up some atmospheric little cafes (Kaffis) which are scattered with twinkling fairy lights, and providing really rather delicious Icelandic coffee and a roof to groups of locals and tourists alike escaping the unpredictable yet rather frequent rain showers. If you look closely enough between these, you can spot discrete bars and night clubs, but unless you choose to begin your night out at around 12.30am like the Icelanders do, it is difficult to fully imagine a Reykjavik nightlife in these places. Do not let this fool you: under the sheet of 24 hour daylight in the summer months, vampy-clad youths emerge to begin their nights out, the bravest of which may do so with a couple of shots of the thoroughly warming, albeit somewhat inadvisable, Brennivín.
This nightlife was not where my heart lay, however. Rather, at 12.30am, I preferred to marvel at the sheer beauty of the coastline of Reykjavik which was illuminated almost as well as it was at midday.
The days are easily filled with many very understated tourist attractions. Be sure not to miss Icelandic art, and if you have an appetite for the fascinating history of the country, particularly its gritty Viking foundations, do not miss the 871 Settlement Museum which, on top of having a very interesting subject matter, had remarkable technology making it exciting for even those who wouldn't otherwise bother.
Perhaps not so much with the warm part, however: having visited in early June, I could not say the weather was typical of a summer holiday. It rained a lot, yet could switch to clear, cold skies or thick grey cloud in the space of minutes. Entirely unpredictable, I can advise only waterproofs, layers, a comfortable car and, of course, walking shoes.
UNMISSABLE: Blue Lagoon - A 45 minute/hour long drive out of Reykjavik central is the famous and truly luxurious Blue Lagoon Geothermal Spa. Once you get over the initial unpleasant sulphuric smell, you instead appreciate you are in a entirely natural hot spring, probably in the rain or snow but the water is gorgeously warm and you can scoop the nourishing clay or get some from small collection points around the spa to rub on your skin. There are also a significant amount of spa treatments available and little steam room/spa hot chambers. Iceland as its geological mightiest and finest, with just the right sprinkling of luxury.
EATING: Þrír Frakkar restaurant - samples a very acquired taste. But definitely authentic! Lots of seafood and fish prepared in very Icelandic ways. Apparently Jamie Oliver is a big fan of this place and its reputation within Reykjavik is as a very popular little snug. Maybe go at the beginning of your trip before you've grown too attached to Puffins...
